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When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. But, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This recognition has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.